Saturday 14 September 2013

The final chateau

We are sitting in the van on a very rainy day in Pornichet, Brittany, but at least and at last we have a decent WiFi connection. We can't complain about the weather either, as this is the first daytime rain we have had since day 2 on this trip.

The last post was from Loches, a beautiful town, with a lovely camp site and hot sunny weather. But we needed to move on if we were to reach the end of the Loire as planned.  Next stop was Villandry, famous for its gardens set out in renaissance style. It really is spectacular, with huge areas of flowers and vegetables planted in intricate patterns and raised walkways to view them from.


That evening we stopped at an aire at Azay le Rideau, which also has a chateau (where hasn't) - this time famous for its mirror garden, or the reflection of the chateau in the moat.


The aire was just a car park, but it was so hot that all the motorhomers  got our chairs out and sat outside till bed time.

Our next chateau was at Breze.  Some of us were a little chateau-weary by now, but this was one with a difference as it was built on top of a series of troglodyte caves which had clearly been inhabited by people and their livestock.  The chateau had the deepest dry moat in France and there was a real warren of workshops, bakery, winery etc built into the rock under the outer castle wall.

We stopped for a couple of days at Saumur, on another camp site on an island in the Loire. We could see the chateau from the site, so didn't feel the need to visit! We went for a bike ride along the river instead, which was lovely.  The river is very shallow in summer and there are lots of herons and egrets and cormorants. Surprisingly you are not allowed to swim in the river, we think because of sinking sands and odd currents.



After Saumur, we stopped for a night at Chalons sur Loire, at an aire with a lovely view.


Then on to Nantes - a very nice city campsite where we were lucky to get the last pitch.  We enjoyed Nantes, which seems to be a go-ahead sort of city, with an excellent tram system and lots of interesting things to see, including what will be our last chateau of this trip, a very imaginative botanic gardens and a moving memorial to the abolition of the slave trade (Nantes being a slave ship port). The highlight though, was the Ile de Machines, some extraordinary mechanical works of art, including a 'flying' heron which carried people in baskets under its wings, an enormous metal branch, populated with plants, which you could walk up and down, and best of all an elephant which strolled around the concourse spraying people with water.  You had to be there!

Wednesday 4 September 2013

Five chateaux and counting

We are now on chateau number five - there are so many in this area that we are spoilt for choice.  We drove from Gien to Chambord, a huge, very impressive moated chateau in
a vast area of parkland.  Apart from paying to park the van, you could wander around outside for free, lovely on a sunny day.

Chambord
 We then spent a couple of days at Amboise, in a campsite on an island in the Loire.  Amboise is a pretty town, the chateau there is more like a castle than a country house, but in a stunning location.

Amboise
 A highlight here was going to see the house where Leonardo da Vinci lived for the last three years of his life. It is a lovely house and there are beautiful models of his inventions in the house and garden, which were fascinating - we spent most of the day there.  Our next chateau was Chenonceau, not far from Amboise.  This one you had to pay to see anything at all, as the building isn't visible from the car park, but it was worth it, a really beautiful setting for a slightly more homely castle.  It had been home to Henry 2nd's favourite lady as it said in the guide book, and later his widow, who both made stunning gardens.  We have now diverted south a little to visit  a  town called Loches, which is probably my favourite stop so far, despite being some way from the Loire. We were lucky to be here on market day so this morning enjoyed buying cheese and special cake.  The weather has been superb for a few days, hot and sunny, no clouds in sight.  Long may it last!
Chenonceau